Snappy sushi bars abound in Boston, but only this elegant restaurant outside of Coolidge Corner offers the full Japanese dining experience, with soups, broiled dishes, tempuras, stir-fries, noodles, pickle plates, and table-side braises. Like other great Japanese restaurants, Fugakyu exudes formality and serenity in its discreet tatami rooms divided by rice paper walls. The sashimi deluxe platter is a triumph of the sushi chef's craft:A each individual slice of fish is a carefully wrought piece of art. Japanese and Western diners alike rave over the dessert of tempura-fried green tea ice cream topped with just a dab of red-bean paste. Reserve far ahead; Fugakyu fills up quickly even on weekday evenings in bad weather.