When it comes to laid-back comfort and straightforward, unpretentious flavors, Divan restaurant has hit on a formula that should serve it well in this rapidly changing part of town. Appetizers run the gamut from Turkish favorites like borek and dill-and-mint-spiked yogurt to familiar Philly fare like lightly battered calamari. Main courses lean heavily toward the red end of the meat spectrum: lamb chops, beef kabobs, etc. Anything cooked on a skewer yields a generous portion for the price. Desserts include caramelized milk pudding, stuffed quince and baklava.